Birgitta Helmersson - Zero Waste Gather Dress - Size One - PDF Pattern

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Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.

Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates.

This is an oversized dress with a dropped shoulder, gathered skirt, side pockets and full length button placket with buttons and button holes. Can be worn as a dress or an open jacket. The skirt seam is designed to sit over the bust. Lengths of bodice and skirt are easily adjustable to your preference. The width of the garment is variable depending on the fabric width you use. Comes with 2 simple hack options, one of which does not require buttons or button holes.

Sizes: Size 1 (EU 36 - 44)

Sewing Level: Advanced Beginner

Fabric recommendations: Ideal in a woven linen or cotton with a weight of approx 150-200gsm. Choose something with a bit of drape and something that is not too thick as the gathers can add a lot of fullness.

Fabric required:

(Recommended Width: 135cm - 155cm / 53 - 61 inches)

Size 1: 260cm / approx 2.85 yards

Notions: Size 1 requires 9 buttons (depending on your chosen garment size) approx 12mm  /  1/2 inch in size. Optional to use a lightweight fusing for the neck band, this is only recommended for very fine fabrics.


This garment has a 'free hip' size due to the gathered skirt, choose your size based on your Chest/Bust measurement.

SIZE CHART SIZE ONE: Chest/Bust 86-104cm / 33-40"


-Length, shoulder to hem: 117.5cm / 46 inches

-Bodice length: 34cm / 13 1/4 inches

-Skirt length: 83.5cm / 32 3/4 inches

-Body (around bodice) circumference: 127cm / 50 inches

-Sleeve length, neck to sleeve hem: 54.75cm / 21 1/2 inches inches

-Sleeve/bicep circumference: 43cm / 17 inches


PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres) and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. You can check the 'Table of Contents' in the PDF booklet to see which page numbers include Templates for printing.