Birgitta Helmersson - Zero Waste Soft Blouse and Dress - PDF Pattern

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Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.

Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates.

This pattern comes in 3 size ranges with all sizes included in the one pattern. Sizes in this pattern include: EU 36/38/40, EU 42/44/46, EU 48/50/52

This is an oversized top made using Zero Waste Pattern Cutting. It has a dropped shoulder and comes with 2 sleeve options, a gathered and twisted double layer sleeve, or a long sleeve with a gathered and elasticated wrist. The front has side bust darts for shaping. The neckline is a minimal crew neck finished with a back bind and a split with loop and button at the centre back to close.

This pattern also comes with 2 hack options, a sleeveless top with darts on the shoulder for shaping and a dress with V-neck front, side pockets and gathered skirt. All pattern options in this book are easily mixed and matched.

Sewing Level: Advanced Beginner

Fabric recommendations: This style works beautifully in a woven fabric, approximately 80-160gsm in a light weight linen, cotton, silk or viscose.

Recommended Width: EU 36/38/40 : 110 - 145cm / EU 42/44/46 : 125 - 145cm / EU 48/50/52 : 135 - 155cm

Fabric required:

EU 36/38/40 : Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm , Long Sleeve (Option D): 126cm

EU 42/44/46 : Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm, Long Sleeve (Option D): 139cm

EU 48/50/52 : Twisted Sleeve (Option C): 140cm, Long Sleeve (Option D): 152cm

Notions: 1 button approx 10mm-12mm wide; 5 - 85cm length of lightweight bias binding in a 30mm width. You can cut your own using an off-cut or contrast fabric, if cutting your own you will need a length of fabric approx 50cm in order to cut a long enough strip on the bias.


* Please note this garment is cut on the crosswise grain which means that your length is largely determined by your fabric width. Length, shoulder to hem, is based on using the recommended hem turn up for each size. This is easily adjustable by changing your hem turn up accordingly.

SIZE CHART EU 36/38/40: Chest 86-96cm, waist 66-76cm, hip 88-98cm

SIZE CHART EU 42/44/46: Chest 101-115cm, waist 81-95cm, hip 103-117cm

SIZE CHART EU 48/50/52: Chest 120-135cm, waist 100-115cm, hip 122-137cm


-Length, shoulder to hem: 53cm / 20 1/2 inch

-Body circumference: 120cm / 47 inch

-Twisted sleeve (sleeve option C) length, neck to sleeve hem: 41cm / 16 inch

-Long sleeve (sleeve option D) : fit length to yourself


-Length, shoulder to hem: 56cm / 22 inch

-Body circumference: 136cm / 53 inch

-Twisted sleeve (sleeve option C) length, neck to sleeve hem: 43.5cm / 17 inch

-Long sleeve (sleeve option D) : fit length to yourself


-Length, shoulder to hem: 59cm / 23 1/4 inch

-Body circumference: 152cm / 60 inch

-Twisted sleeve (sleeve option C) length, neck to sleeve hem: 44.5cm / 17 1/2 inch

-Long sleeve (sleeve option D) : fit length to yourself


PDF Pattern/Instruction Booklet: Includes measurements in both metric (centimetres) and US imperial (inches). Booklet/Templates are printable on both A4 or US Letter Paper size. You can check the 'Table of Contents' in the PDF booklet to see which page numbers include Templates for printing.

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