Birgitta Helmersson - Zero Waste Bell Jacket - PDF Pattern

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Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.

Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern is ‘PAPERLESS’ meaning that no printing of large pattern pieces is required. Instead of using full scale paper patterns, you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and small templates.

This is an oversized jacket with a rounded collar, front button closure, 3 front patch pockets, an inverted box pleat at the centre back neck, and wide sleeves that are perfect for fitting all of your winter layers underneath. The Bell jacket gets it’s name from the bell shaped sleeve, created with several darts sewn into the hem of the sleeve. This jacket is fully lined.

There are 2 size options for this jacket with slight design variations between each. The size TWO has 2 panels at the centre back body and has more of a dropped shoulder than the size ONE. This pattern also comes with 2 hack options, a shirt with a square collar and a quilted version, un-lined. Both of these have online tutorials for the extra steps. 

Size One

Width 145cm / 57" = max bust 96cm / 38", max hip 101cm / 40"

Width 150cm / 59" = max bust 101cm / 40", max hip 108cm / 42"

Width 155cm / 61" = max bust 106cm / 42", max hip 111cm / 44"

Size Two 

Width 145cm / 57" = max bust 133cm / 52", max hip 142cm / 56"

Width 150cm / 59" = max bust 138cm / 54", max hip 147cm / 58"

Width 155cm / 61" = max bust 143cm / 56", max hip 152cm / 60"

Fabric recommendations: Ideal in a wool or heavy weight denim or heavy cotton drill. Recommended linings, something with a bit of weight that has a nice drape. Required lining width is very specific and is based on the OUTER  fabric width you are using.

OUTER: Recommended Widths: 145cm - 155cm / 57 - 61 inches

LINING: Widths based on OUTER width used.

145cm / 57” OUTER = 135cm / 53” LINING

150cm / 59” OUTER = 140cm / 55” LINING

155cm / 61” OUTER = 145cm / 57”  LINING


Fabric required: This is a guide only, these yardage requirements may change a little if you want to adjust the lengths of the sleeves and body. Refer to the Instruction Booklet for more.

SIZE ONE: Outer- 130cm / 51", Lining- 120cm / 47"

SIZE TWO: Outer- 150cm / 59", Lining- 140cm / 55"


Notions (Optional):

FUSING/INTERFACING: Iron on fusing in a mid-heavy weight. Required to fuse the hems and collar. More on fusing in the ‘Cutting Plan’ document.

BINDING 4cm / 1.5” wide to finish the centre front bodies and back neck facing, you will require approximately 150cm / 59”.

4-5 BUTTONS approx 20mm / 3/4” in size.


This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. The cutting plan/templates document for the ZW Bell Jacket requires printing of 11 pages in A4/US Letter Paper.